Hidezu Bar

Part of the appeal is not knowing in advance what will arrive, and having time to wait at an easy pace for the day's cooking. At Hides Bar, tucked into a building in Nishi-Shinjuku, the owner brings the table to life with an omakase menu. The dishes range beyond Japanese and Western cooking, weaving in Chinese and other Asian influences. They arrive at a lively pace, with substantial portions spanning starters, fish and meat.

There are thoughtful twists along the way: deep-fried tofu in the style of dengaku, seasoned with Saikyo miso; fried food served with yoghurt sauce; and a beef carpaccio-style dish with green mustard and sherry vinegar. After roasted jidori chicken with butter-cream sauce and slowly simmered meat dishes, the meal can finish with clam rice, rice cooked with dashi, or even mapo tofu.

Drinks are mainly self-serve: beer, wine and cocktails can be picked up from the fridge or table. It lends an informal ease to a night out with friends. Plans that include all-you-can-drink options are also available, making the format a natural fit for a group sharing dishes and drinks.

Dinner reservations are recommended. The restaurant is open Monday to Saturday from 6 pm to 11 pm and closed on Sundays. Reviewers describe friendly hospitality and a relaxed setting for groups looking to eat well without ceremony.